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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred names. Yet, tucked near the top among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung part of northern London.

An Surprise Honour

This small Turkish eatery, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. The recognition has left the proprietors completely astonished.

“I’m totally astonished,” says a proprietor, alluding to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their modest shop securing such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its former charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the fare, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, toastier and more balanced taste.

Outranking the Stars

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

A Ethos of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to show them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not train at fancy restaurants. “I am very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning outside its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this culinary achievement.